Ayers Rock Blocked?
The gigantic monolith in the centre of the heart of Australia is a place of curious contradictions.
Firstly, the name. Most people know it as Ayers Rock, yet you won’t find those two words on any map. Its official name is Uluru, the name given by the Anangu, who are the Aboriginal people native to the region, and who have lived there for 60,000 years.
Secondly, the physicality. The monolith itself is an incredibly striking natural feature, but it is accentuated by the completely unremarkable landscape which surrounds it. A flat, otherwise featureless landscape. The two are at complete odds with one another.
Thirdly, the rules, the most baffling contradiction of all. Specifically, the rules to do with climbing the rock. No one is really quite sure what they are; it’s all terribly confusing. On the one hand there are signs pleading with visitors not to climb the rock. These have been erected by the native Aboriginal folk, who regard it as something deeply sacred, and certainly not a playground for tourists. These signs also remind that many people have died trying to do so. On the other hand, running up the side of the rock, like a stitched wound, is a line of poles and cables. These have been erected by the Australian government, to help people climb the rock.
Why give the option? It’s a bit like putting up a banner in a church saying: “You can moon the Virgin Mary if you want, but we’d really rather you didn’t.”
It does seem, however, that common sense and moral sensitivities are finally prevailing, and this is largely due to visitors themselves steadily opting out of climbing. A recent survey has revealed that in the last two years alone there has been a 20% drop in the number of people who choose to climb, meaning that just one in five now take it on. In 1990, it was four in five. Although nothing has been set in stone yet, there have been indications from Australia Parks (the body that manages the country’s national parks) that a climbing ban will be put in place. “But,” a spokeswoman has said, “we want to ensure we have more alternative experiences – more indigenous guided tours, for example – in place for visitors before that happens.”
If the current trend continues, however, an official ban may not be necessary. It seems education, rather than rules, is most effective in preventing people climbing, and this can only be a good thing.
Rock on.
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About the Author (Author Profile)
My best travelling experience was a two-month road trip around and through Australia in a tiny campervan. When they appeared, the sights were magnificent. But what I loved most about the whole thing was the relentless motion; travel in its simplest form. Because of the vast distance we needed to cover (13,000 kilometres) it was necessary to be almost constantly on the move, and this became a way of life. Nothing can quite compare to the freedom you feel when pulling out onto a road that ends in a vanishing point, fuel needle pointing to 12 o’clock. Next on my bucket list is Antarctica to see the emperor penguins. These have to be the most adorably quirky creatures on the planet (though meerkats come a close second), and nothing would give me greater pleasure than to see them waddling around in their natural environment. And speaking of the environment, I’ve always been drawn to inhospitable places; they unnerve me and excite me in equal measures, a balance which in my opinion is the epitome of a fulfilling travel experience. Or perhaps I’m just a misanthrope in denial.Subscribe
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