Read any medieval fantasy epic and you’ll probably come to a page whose very paper feels heated by the fire from the throat of a ferocious flying beast. Most people think of snarling nostrils, razor-sharp fangs, and a head and body festooned with dagger-like spines when dragons are mentioned. What they don’t expect are the sort of creatures that can be found in the Chinatowns of British Columbia on January, 23^rd.

Don’t be put off by news stories that the new special edition stamp of a Chinese Dragon has been scaring people – it’s traditionally portrayed in a seriously different light. The Zodiacal symbol soars on wings of prosperity and longevity. It breathes flamboyancy and enthusiasm into the melting pot, and it is these qualities in particular that are mimicked when British Columbians celebrate the Chinese New Year in Vancouver's Chinatown.

So, while the Dragon remains dominant over the next year and especially when people begin welcoming its reign, you should feel encouraged to explore two of British Columbia’s most prominent Chinatowns, each pertaining their own selection of wonderments.

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Each characteristic of the Dragon is tempered by Chinese elemental materials. Over the last eighty four years we’ve seen four other dragon types in Wood, Metal, Earth and Fire. 2012 is the turn of the Water Dragon. Every twelve years it makes it onto the scene, and it’s been six decades since the last liquid lizard made an appearance. The Water Dragon is supposed to have calming effects on the otherwise fearsome Dragons’ temperaments, quenching all impatience and bull-headedness.

Take to the streets of Vancouver, for example, where you’ll find the largest Chinatown in Canada and the mood is frantic. Over the celebration period, the roads are flushed with colour and excitement. Dance troupes sway and pounce in perfect synchronicity, while the VPD Motorcycle Drill Team throws its own part into proceedings.

To bring things to a head, on January, 29^th, a monstrous two hour, 1.2km-long parade of fifty lion dancers ebbs and flows down the streets of Vancouver’s Chinatown. Heading East on Pender Street from the Millennium Gate, down to Gore Street, and onto Keefer Street where it dissipates at Keefer and Columbia, this river of fiery colour generates annual crowds of around fifty thousand, not to mention the people watching on television.

As well as all the excitement on the roads, the restaurants of Canada’s Chinatowns open their arms to welcome everyone wishing to sample what’s on offer. Food symbolising the specific animal of that year will likely be available. In this case, it won’t be roasted dragon’s tongue served on a bed of scales and a side of fiery salsa. Instead, noodles and spring rolls could be on the menu, each representing what the Dragon stands for. Noodles symbolise longevity; it’s said to be unlucky to cut them up upon consumption. Spring rolls are served because of their likeness to pristine bars of gold (just filled with veggies). Also, oranges are given out freely during the Year of the Dragon because the Chinese word for ‘orange’ sounds like ‘wealth’ – what a shame ‘chocolate’ doesn’t sound like ‘wealth’ instead.

It’s not just Vancouver that makes the most of the Year of the Dragon. South west of Vancouver on Vancouver Island, is the city of Victoria where another Canadian record is held. Victoria’s Chinatown is the oldest in the country at one-hundred-and-fifty-four years. It still boasts fabulous restaurants, bars and cafes, and one mentionable feature has to be its 0.9m wide Tan Fan Alley, off Fisgard Street. The name of the alley comes from an old gambling game in the 1800s that used to be played by people in the gambling huts and opium dens which used to line the alley itself.

At the entrance of Victoria’s Chinatown is the magnificent gateway, the Gates of Harmonious Interest. It’s based on the traditional Chinese paifang archway, and maintains the typical red and yellow colours pertaining to the Chinese culture. Standing proudly, almost as if guarding the town, are two concrete lions, while overhead fly a golden dragon and a red phoenix in a Yin and Yang style. The whole structure is a symbol of how Chinese and non-Chinese people came together to build it, hence the two inscriptions written on the gates, “To work together with one heart”, and, “To help each other achieve harmony”.

If you’re of a superstitious disposition, heed these warnings: don’t mention the word ‘four’ – it sounds too much like the Chinese word for ‘death’. Such utterances are completely taboo so, if you’re out in Victoria for example, with three other friends around the Chinese New Year, be careful if you’re the one ordering the drinks at a bar – you might not get what you ask for. Something else to bear in mind is that crying on New Year’s Day is also a bad omen. Children are, therefore, tolerated even if they’re a nuisance. Finally, and most relevant: scissors and knives. They’re a no-go. The Year of the Dragon is all about blossoming financial benefits, and the use of scissors or knives on New Year’s Day is said to cut all ties to this symbolism. It would appear forks and spoons are the utensils of choice when it comes to cutting up a hunk of chicken, for example.

For more information about British Columbia, visit the website My Destination British Columbia.

Guy Arnold, My Destination British Columbia
January 2012

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