Akmar Passage

Akmar Passage in Kadiköy center is one of the Asian side’s best loved but lesser known gems, dating back around half a century. It may not boast the refined elegance of some of its European-side equivalents, but its narrow corridors, excitable workers and eclectic mix of books, music and other goods make for an enlivening, albeit slightly chaotic, experience.

It’s deceptively large, with its contents spilling over two stories; even the stairwell leading down to its bottom floor overflows with books. One would do best to avoid eye contact with the sellers, who stand in their shop doors trying to entice passersby to check out their stock. The assortment is huge, ranging from academic textbooks to political biographies, Mills & Boon romance novels, dictionaries and travel guides. Most, of course, are in Turkish, though there are a fair number of foreign-language texts including a significant selection of English, German, French, Swedish and Norwegian books.

Right at the passage’s end is Kent English, one of a large number of private English language schools on the Asian side, while downstairs there are a scattering of stores specializing in hard rock and heavy metal t-shirts, posters and cut-price movies and music. In among all this is a tiny tea house-style cafe, and opposite it a jumble of a shop selling all kinds of knickknacks such as Native American statues, Zippo lighters, hip flasks and other giftware.

A visit to Akmar Passage inevitably ends with unintended purchases, whether it’s an armful of bizarre books or a slightly dusty dream catcher. It’s a little like a yard sale, Kadiköy style.