Opened in 1890 to jubilant celebration, Sirkeci Railway Station has come to be known as one of the world’s most romantic symbols of travel. Writers like Agatha Christie and Graham Greene based entire novels on the old Orient Express rail line, which connected Paris with Istanbul and terminated at this very place. In their stories, a growing sense of excitement leads the reader to look all the time towards the last stop, where the mystique of the east meets the best of the west in Istanbul.

The Orient Express opened up relations between east and west like never before, and many intrepid travellers took full advantage of this connection. Though this oft-written about line no longer exists as it once did, the luxurious Venice Simplon Orient Express makes one journey per year to Istanbul using restored coaches from the 1930’s, and it’s still possible to reach Greece and Bulgaria (and from there, the rest of Europe) from Istanbul by train.

Designed by German architect and engineer A. Jasmund - who came to Istanbul in order to research oriental architecture and ended up becoming the advisory architect of Sultan Abdulhamit II – Sirkeci Station’s unique style has since been a major source of inspiration for railway station designs throughout Central Europe. The station, which is situated in Eminonu, is an exotic blend of regional and national motifs, combining a granite base with intricate brickwork, stained glass windows, colourful tiles and marble facades. While sweeping terraces once led down to the sea, these days it has a direct ferry connection, allowing passengers to easily travel between the Asian and European sides of the city.

Sirkeci’s exterior is dominated by shades of coral pink with two large clock towers standing on either side of the entrance. Inside, the spacious hall looks directly onto tracks and there are a few benches scattered about. During the 1950’s and ‘60’s, the onsite restaurant became a popular meeting point for writers, journalists and intellectuals whose laughter and arguments no doubt lent the station a thrilling air. Recently renamed the ‘Orient Express Restaurant’, passengers and visitors can today still relive this experience themselves while brooding over Turkish coffee, cold beer and traditional Turkish dishes. The station also hosts regular whirling dervish ceremonies, and makes for a wonderful backdrop to explore Turkish culture.

Those with an interest in locomotive history may appreciate the TCDD Istanbul Railway Museum, which is set inside. This free museum contains more than three hundred related objects including model trains and carriages, photographs, plans and original furniture.

Trains depart from Sirkeci Railway Station to local, regional and international destinations in the west. Istanbul’s suburban train line (‘Banliyo Treni’) runs to many European-side suburbs, while the Istanbul to Thessaloniki ‘Dostluk-Filia (Friendship) Express’ and the ‘Bosphorus Express’ trains to Budapest, Bucharest and Sofia also depart from here. It’s also possible to get to Edirne (albeit very slowly) from here.

Tickets can be purchased in person at the station; there is a dedicated international office with English speaking staff, and passports generally need to be shown when booking. Keep in mind that all trains bound for the south or east of Turkey and beyond depart from Istanbul’s other railway station, Haydarpasa, which is situated opposite on the Asian side of the city.

It may not be the luxurious terminus it once was, but Sirkeci Station continues to evoke an unspoken nostalgia in all those who wander its halls.

For more information on Istanbul and a comprehensive guide to everything the city has to offer, please visit My Destination Istanbul.

Helen Simpson, My Destination Istanbul
July 2011