Mustafa Kemal Ataturk is one of the most important names in modern Turkish history, and if you visit Istanbul it’s hard not to encounter this legendary character. The founder of the Turkish Republic and first president of the country, Ataturk (meaning ‘father of the Turks’) is credited with initiating one of the most far-reaching transformations of a society that the modern world has ever known.

Born in Thessaloniki  (now Greece) in 1881, Ataturk rose quickly up the ranks of the Ottoman military to become one of its most respected figures. His campaigns in Gallipoli and in other parts of the Ottoman Empire helped to gain Turkey its independence and to cement its place in the world.

But some of Ataturk’s greatest achievements occurred following the establishment of the Republic of Turkey in 1923. Critical of what he saw as ‘backward’ elements of Turkish society, the then president went about initiating a whole series of reforms, the most major of which included: a complete overhaul of the Turkish language and the adoption of a Latin alphabet; the separation of state and religion; the adoption of a secular, European-style legal code; and the introduction of women’s rights.  These reforms fell under what became known as the ‘Arrows of Kemalism’: nationalism, republicanism, populism, reformism, secularism and statism, which were all duly honoured in the Turkish constitution.

Ataturk’s legacy remains entrenched in modern Turkish society and he is passionately loved and respected by the majority of the population.  He spent a significant part of his life in Istanbul, and there remain many traces of him around the city. An exploration of these places is an exploration of some of the most important elements of modern Turkish history.

A good place to start is the Ataturk Museum, a beautiful Ottoman-era townhouse in Sisli where Ataturk lived with his mother and sister for several years. Purchased by the Istanbul Municipality and converted into a museum in the 1940’s, it now houses a collection of his personal belongings, historical documents, pictures and more.

Nearby, inside the old Ottoman Military Academy where Ataturk honed his profession, the Istanbul Military Museum contains a wealth of information and artifacts relating to Turkish military history. The impressive collection dates from the beginning of the Ottoman Empire to the end of World War II. It’s also a great place to watch a Janissary (Ottoman military band) in action!

And although Ataturk took his professional life seriously, he was also known for his penchant for a good time. He’s rumoured to have had a particular affection for the Turkish meyhane tradition, where patrons eat, drink, sing and dance the night away. There are plenty of meyhanes in Istanbul, but one of Ataturk’s sworn favourites was Cumhuriyet Meyhanesi, which is still up and running to this day. Each year on the anniversary of his death, the restaurant’s owners set a glass of raki (traditional Turkish liquor) down in his honour.

But no retracing of Ataturk’s steps would be complete without seeing where he spent his final moments.  The last administrative centre of the Ottoman Empire, Dolmabahce Palace stands tall on the banks of the Bosphorus. Within the rabbit-warren of rooms inside this imposing neo-baroque structure is Ataturk’s former study and bedroom, where he was to take his last breaths. The Palace’s clocks are eternally set to the exact time he passed away, at 9.05am on November 10^th, 1938.

The date’s worth mentioning if you’re in Istanbul in November, as once a year at 9.05am the entire city comes to a standstill as Turks commemorate Ataturk’s life and death with a minute’s silence. Ships blow their foghorns and drivers toot their car horns in a blaring nod to this architect of history. 

Even if you don’t manage to make it to these places, chances are you’ll come across Ataturk’s name or face during your time in Istanbul. Many places are named after him including Ataturk Airport, Ataturk Olympic Stadium, Ataturk Arboretum and Ataturk Bridge, while statues, busts, paintings and photos of him feature in just about every shop, park, restaurant and home in the city.

For more information on Istanbul and a comprehensive guide to everything the city has to offer, please visit MyDestination.com/istanbul.

Helen Simpson, My Destination Istanbul
October 2011