Benares

Benares Overview

When people talk about the Indian food in London being better than the Indian food in India itself, it’s very possible that they’re talking about Benares. Taking the casual expectations of Indian food and Indian restaurants – identikit dishes, overpowering sauces, nonplussed and hurried service – and turning them on their head, the restaurant takes the very notion of an Indian restaurant and proceeds to grind it under its (very elegant) heel.

First, the impressions. With its location in Berkeley Square in Mayfair central and top-hatted doormen, it makes no qualms about its aspirations as a purveyor of the very finest. The dining room is serene and hushed, and the adjoining bar is lively and buzzy, even for Mayfair – exotically innovative cocktails like the cardamom and saffron-infused Saffron Dasy are on offer, and go down a treat before dinner.

The food itself is of rare quality – fresh, light and beautifully cooked, the calibre of the kitchen’s abilities have been recognised by the Michelin inspectors who have consistently rewarded it with a Michelin star for several years running. Ingredients are local and British, but the preparations are distinctly Indian. Meat and fish is delicately cooked and often accompanied by venerably chef Atul Kochhar’s disarmingly good chutneys, as in the Rechado-spiced Mackerel with ginger and sesame chutney, or the opulent Butter-Poached Lobster Tail with Keralan Raw Mango Curry and Amritsari. There is also a separate vegetarian menu, and the restaurant offers easily one of the most decadent vegetarian meals in the city. Wine pairings are recommended for each of the delicately spiced dishes, and are often a revelation.

Opening times: Monday - Saturday:

12:00 – 14:30/17:30 – 22:45, Sunday: 12:00 – 15:00