To say the words ‘Costa del Sol’ can often result in the rather unfortunate reaction of a superior sneer. Famed as a somewhat pretentious playground for the rich and famous- not helped by Louis Vuitton lined streets and The Only Way is Essex cast and crew flying in by the easyJet load - has led to many people avoiding those three little loaded words.
However, away from the glitzy yachts bobbing in the Puerto Banus marina and the endless posing of perma-tanned bodies is a taste of old Spain, just as it once was. Suitably deemed Marbella’s Old Town, this tight-knit network of winding cobbled streets seems a world apart from Marbella’s fast-paced and flashy façade.
Instead of Ferraris roaring by along the marina front, in Marbella Old Town you are greeted by the scenic world of traditional Spain. Here, flamenco dresses hang in airy shop windows, colourful bougainvillea trail along white-washed walls, fountains flow sedately and chapels exude a quaint historical charm.
Right in the cultural epicentre of this Old Town lies La Plaza de las Naranjas, an open-air square shaded by picturesque orange trees. The perfect place to steal a moment under the fragrant trees, this central square is dotted with traditional cafes and lively Spanish restaurants. Capturing the local equivalent of ‘Je ne sais quoi’- no séqueis unsurprisingly less catchy- this vibrant square retains the true spirit of traditional Spain. And failing all else, Churros are often served here, a strip of sugar-coated pastry designed to be dipped in molten hot chocolate that is sure to satisfy your cultural hunger-pangs, (or perhaps that’s just me!)
Close by lies another great place to learn the local history and soak-up the Spanish atmosphere, the resident town hall. Located proudly beneath a row of regional flags to the left of Orange Square, this monument stands as a testament to traditional catholic monarchs. And, used to this day as an administrative centre for Marbella , this prominent building remains in the hearts of the local Spanish people.
While Gucci and Prada are nowhere to be seen, (much to many husbands’ relief), small boutiques, art galleries and sweet shops have found a permanent place in the Old Town. Head to Victoria Square and to find some of our own personal favourites, selling everything from colourful clothes to tiny trinkets.
No tour of Spanish culture would be complete without a taste of some traditional tapas . And offered in cafes and bars dotted all around the Old Town, it is hard to venture far from an affordable ‘Menúdel Día’ serving these tiny treats. The Spanish version of the canapé, these small Mediterranean meat and seafood dishes provide the perfect end to any cultural day.
Who needs Prada and Gucci when you have tapas and trinkets? Well, perhaps a little bit of both never hurt anyone….
For further regional advice or any information on the shops, restaurants and hotels in Marbella, visit My Destination Marbella.
Emily Waller, My Destination Marbella
August 2011
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